Thermometer probe for electric stove, insert things into random holes | Hacker Day

2021-12-16 08:22:38 By : Mr. Mike Lin

[NurdRage] is the most famous chemist on YouTube. He has changed the tone of voice. He returned with one of our favorite pastimes: buying cheap equipment and tools, reading poorly translated manuals, and without any instructions. Next figure out how to do something.

[NurdRage] I recently picked up a magnetic stirrer and electric stove. So far, it has worked well, but it lacks a thermometer probe. [NurdRage] When ordering, he thought he would get one with an electric stove, but he never received it. Contacting the seller did not get a response, and reading the poorly translated manual did not even reveal who the manufacturer was. It is believed that this is an imitation, and more studies have shown that the heating plate is a copy of the SCILOGEX heating plate. The SCILOGEX temperature probe sells for $161. That's not cool.

The temperature probe is listed as a PT1000 sensor in the manual; a platinum-based RTD with a resistance of 1000Ω at 0°C. If this assumption is correct, the lead wire of the temperature probe connector can be determined by inserting a 1kΩ resistor in the connector. When the electric stove reads 0ºC, this is the wire to which the temperature probe is connected.

After finding the right pin connector, [NurdRage] bought a PT1000 for a few dollars on eBay, took a DIN-5 connector from a keyboard 20 years ago, and connected everything together. The sensor is housed in a pipette, and the wire bundle winds down along the vinyl tube.

For $20 parts, [NurdRage] managed to avoid paying $161 for the genuine product. It is as easy to use as stocks and commercial units, and it can produce excellent videos. Take a look below.

Thanks [Cyber​​Djay] for the tips.

"Platinum-based thermocouple" You may want to correct this. A thermocouple is an RTD that uses a change in resistivity with the temperature of the material, which is different from a thermocouple that uses the Seebeck effect.

Thermocouples are not RTDs. RTD is an RTD.

Thermocouples use something crazy called the Seebeck effect. Basically two different metals are connected at a junction, and when heated, there will naturally be some potential.

Then use a very sensitive amplifier and AD pair to read this voltage.

Usually, this also requires the use of a "cold reference" temperature sensor for compensation, and for long-distance wiring, compensation is required at the terminal point.

Interestingly, resistive RTD sensors do not require cold junction compensation or special wiring problems, and they also have other desirable characteristics that are better than thermocouples.

Everyone has their place, and it's not the same thing.

Sorry, when correcting someone, you should double check my post. The first "thermocouple" should be "PT1000", thank you for setting it correctly.

PT1000 is not a thermocouple. This is an RTD.

Thank you, because the real heroes of hack-a-day are not those who spend hundreds of hours innovating and sharing their cool projects with the world, but those who hang out in the comment section and correct everyone.

You're welcome. Because young people who read these blogs don't always know better, and their minds are full of misinformation that they pass to their peers.

Before you know it, Hackaday.io is full of absurd things, such as perpetual motion machines, electronic sex toys, and absurd ideas that never really become real projects.

https://hackaday.io/project/5075-van-de-graaff-generator-free-energy-brainstorm https://hackaday.io/project/4660-freeenergy-for-the-world https://hackaday. io/project/3835-computer-vision-dildos https://hackaday.io/project/3846-heartbeat-sensor-tutorial https://hackaday.io/project/3492-digivibe https://hackaday.io/Comingle https://hackaday.io/hacker/37146-99guspuppet https://hackaday.io/project/5126-weeed

Sometimes I will encounter some items here, and the description of these items can be edited with some careful techniques. I found that I must restrain myself from being pedantic. I usually only comment on technical errors in the most serious cases. There are some diplomatic commentary methods that can lead readers in the right direction, but when “contributing” corrections, striking a balance between diplomacy and defeating someone can be tricky.

In addition, as an engineer, the most difficult document to write is to describe your project with enough technical details so that those without a specific circuit background can understand it. Now letting managers (usually non-technical people) mix in makes writing more difficult.

I really hate people who ask for analogy with stupid techniques.

But what is RTD?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistance_thermometer

Throw things into random holes... my life story.

The heating regulation of this structure will overshoot: thick glass, insulating air, and large pt1000 itself will give it a very slow response time.

Maybe pour in some molten lead, or smash the aquarium thermometer and steal the small shot?

Sand baths are usually used for this type of heating, but I have never seen a stirrer/sand bath.

The bare film pt sensor can be easily installed in the ptfe tube, heating the end until it becomes transparent, and then squeezing between the pliers to close the end, _ responds faster than the lazy build of NurdRage.

I want Scilogex originals with 5-pin connectors to use 4-wire measurement. He was lucky to be eliminated. Otherwise he would never find two pins that could be detected in this way.

Most RTDs will not disturb the complete 4-wire setup. Almost the same accuracy can be obtained with only three wires, and even so, it is only important for long lines with lower resistance PT100 probes. PT1000 only needs two wires as short as two wires.

(Real numbers from our real hardware: it is accurate to give a 4-wire configuration. The PT100 RTD on a 3m 28 ga 2-wire cable will show a few degrees of error. With a 3-wire configuration, it is a few tenths of a degree. PT1000 can deviate by a few tenths of a degree with only two wires, if they are very short, it will be within a tenth of a degree.)

One of the main reasons for RTD (100 ohm or 1000 ohm) to use 4-wire measurement is to eliminate connector resistance. You can eliminate the resistance of the wire (unless you buy a calibrated RTD, you need to use it as part of the calibration, if you pay for the calibration, you may care about one percent), but you cannot consider the difference in connectors resistance. The rated contact resistance of a normal DIN connector is ~.05 ohm, which is close to half a degree on a 100 ohm device. Moving to 1000 ohm equipment mainly alleviates the problem of low-precision work, but for precision work, you still need a 3-wire or 4-wire setting to ensure accuracy better than one-tenth of a degree

It is good for applications where the stirrer/hotplate is used within one or three degrees of the correct temperature-reproducibility is more important. The main purpose is to heat the beaker (half a cup) filled with the solution while stirring-even when stirring, there will be a temperature gradient from top to bottom and from the inside to the outside. The influence of contact resistance etc. is small.

Type A rtd is only +/-0.15'C at 0'C

The reading of the electric furnace is not 0°C, but 1°C

Look at the resistance. Gold belt = 5% tolerance. This is why the readings are slightly off.

RTDs can also be connected to 4-20 mA transmitters using very low-cost RTDs. http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/QNVNnYf. It is loop powered, so the current in the power supply is "modulated" by the transmitter, which can be read with precision resistors and ADC pins

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